A Green Garden


I have never had the discipline to plant my containers with green plants.  I am soft in the head about flowers, and color.  Every year I think about greening it, after which I invariably buy pink or orange or carmine flowered plants.   I have been planting containers that feature the color green for this client a long time. This years containers are making me think about green all over again.  The boxwood balls with attending topknots get overwintered in an unheated greenhouse space.  The skirt of variegated licorice is all they need.  The late afternoon sun dusting the boxwood-a beautiful moment.

The Kimberly ferns that were lanky in the spring are holding forth some 2 months after planting.  The maidenhair ferns planted underneath them are in a trailing phase-this I like.  The caladiums and pteris ferns in the wirework planters are a delicate foil for the massive ferns.

The view out from the porch is just as green.  A planting of butterburrs contained by sheet metal set 24″ deep into the soil is a big textured groundcover for a series of Bradford pears.  The densiformis yews either side of the walk are thriving.  Everywhere I look, I see green.  What a pleasure.

She has a collection of topiaries which we winter over with the boxwoods.  This silver germander, teucrium fructicans, grown on standard is a standout. It has been wintered over successfully for many years.  The trunk must be over an inch in diameter; the head better than 4 feet across.  Wintering topiaries is a nuisance, but this germander is not hardy in our zone.  A topiary like this is worth the trouble to cultivate. 

A double ball bay tree is older still.  The window box is so narrow and shallow, I would not think of planting it with anything else than heat loving drought tolerant plants. That dark green paired with all of those blue grey diminuitve plants, an interesting conversation about contrast.

A collection of pots on the terrace is dominated by an agave; the bloom spike is spectacular.  The agave is underplanted with showy oregano. I like the relationship of the giant stiff agave leaves, and the drapy stems of the oregano.  That idea is repeated with the lime striped phormium, and euphorbia.  The stone planter box was planted with 3 one gallon Chicago figs-so called, as they are root hardy as far north as Chicago.  They are happy enough to have set fruit.  

The visual success of this planting is all about the relationship of one plant to another, but the spot on watering ranks right up there.  The container has been watered sparingly, in spite of all of our heat. The long iron box-stuffed with lavender, cirrus dusty miller, white trailing verbena, and a trailing blue succulent whose name I do not know.

White New Guinea impatiens are neither rare nor remarkable, but for the size of the flowers, and their color.  This is the cleanest, freshest, brightest white in the annual kingdom.  They also have a very dressy look-a decided contrast to the lavender.  The white dahlia in the center, about to send forth another round of blooms.

The quartet of baby blue foliaged agaves just filled this old concrete container.  Each of these two elements makes the other look better.  The silver dichondra in the adjacent box is the same color, but of a much different form and habit. 

The white marguerites bloom heavily a few times over the course of the summer.  The sporadic blooms in between are fine.  The dark green ferny foliage takes well to clipping. It is a lush look, even without flowers. Variegated licorice and cirrus dusty miller are surprisingly good together.  The dusty looks so blue-the variegated licorice so lime/yellow.  Very subtle the contrast, and very satisfying.

Some of my favorite plants that are predominantly green, or green and white?  Lime irisine, phormium, white Sun Parasol mandevillea, maidenhair ferns, white trailing verbena, lavender, licorice, dichondra, basil, plectranthus of any kind, and euphorbia Diamond Frost. 

The giant growing nicotiana mutabilis on the far right is the only plant that flowers with any color to speak of.  I cannot hold those pink flowers against one of my most favorite summer plants.


I winter a number of triple ball brush cherry topiaries for this client-I sprinkle them all over the terraces.  The begonia which is the underplanting here-I have not the faintest idea of its name.  I just knew the texture, the shape of the leaf, and the plant habit would work well with this green scheme. A gorgeous green garden-I think I might have to have one.

Too Much Water

 


I knew from the start that the installation of this landscape would prove difficult.  The property on the whole drains poorly at best.  The soil is very heavy clay; parts of the property would hold water for weeks in the spring.  It is not as if I were hoping for the best; an extensive drainage system was installed, and 1000 yards of soil added to bring the grade up.  Faintly visible above the boxwood in this picture, one of many catch basins.  The central landscape feature for the rear yard-14 very large columnar carpinus.  By very large, I mean in excess of 25 feet tall.  In front of those carpinus, densiformis yews and boxwood planted on a large radius.  A rose garden and fountain completed this center portion of the landscape.   

On either side of this center section, simple lawn panels edged in boxwood.  At the far ends, a pair of herbaceous borders on both sides of the lawn.  The wild landscape in the background would be left as is, although there were a number of ash trees dead and dying which had to come down. 

The perennial gardens are backed up by a long hedge of Limelight hydrangea.  The perennial border were planted with Russian sage, boltonia, peonies, Siberian iris, Shasta daisies, coneflowers-all the usual suspects.  I was interested in those perennials that are fairly easy to grow, and lots of them. I did plant the perennials alternating; that meadowy look would pair well with that untouched wild background. 

Within a year, the carpinus had begun to show definite signs of water stress. Roses and perennials, going into the winter soaking wet, died.  I suspected that the irrigation system was pumping as much water to all of the beds as it was to the lawn.  Once woody plant material is established, its need for water declines.  I was by no means thrilled with how the irrigation system had been designed, but it was what I had to work with.  The lawn looked fine-the landscape did not. 

By the third year, there was no mistaking that the trees were not going to tolerate the level of water they were getting.  Added to that, some hard late spring frosts with below freezing temperatures for 4 days in a row.  There were lots of leaf buds damaged or destroyed.  My client was alarmed by what she saw.  I told her there was no giving up on the trees.  We no longer had access to the rear yard to plant trees.  She was going to have to grow them out. My client is a very decisive individual.  She turned the irrigation off, and locked the box.  The lawn was irrigated as little as possible, and definitely not on any regular schedule.  

5 years later, the carpinus have made quite the comeback, and are growing vigorously.  They only get water when it rains.  All of the woody plant material has stabilized.  It can be very difficult to establish a landscape on clay, but once it is established it is very long lived-unless you overwater.  Enough water to live, and enough water to drown can be close to the same amount.  Once you see the foliage on woody plants start to yellow, check the water first.   

Even the yews behind the boxwood have stabilized  If you are wondering how it is possible for it to be shorter than the boxwood-the deer keep it pruned like this.  I am amazed at how level a job they do, chewing.   

The lawn has spots that look like they could use a little water, but a sustainable equilibrium here is more important than a perfect lawn.  The foliage color of every plant is exactly as it should be.  M and M maintains this landscape; Mindy keeps a sharp eye out for any sign of too much water.  It has taken 6 years to get this landscape to thrive as it should. 

Even the perennials have put on size.  I find it very easy to get perennials planted in sandy soil to take hold, but it is so hard to keep them thriving.  The only solution there is to add organic material to the soil and mulch every chance you get.  Perennial bark fines add a lot of organic material to the soil, when it decomposes.  Once perennials are well established on clay, they can live a long time. 

We have the watering on the pots down as well. One of the reasons I so enjoy container gardening is my option to pick the soil, and supply adequate drainage.  My experience planting indicates that attempting to radically change the composition of native soil is futile.  I plant trees that like wet feet in very heavy soils; I have success with evergreens and lavender on sandy based well drained soils.  I almost never plant rhododendron-our soil is very heavy and alkaline, not acid and compost based. But the pots are different-I get to pick the soil.  These yellow cannas are beginning to spike; they have had enough hot weather and regular watering to flower.   

This is a much happier garden than it was 6 years ago.  As Jennifer commented yesterday, a gardener is a person who is in it for the long haul.  These pot planting only last one season.  I like that.  I can start over, and do better next year.  But a  landscape is a committment that needs looking after, year after year.  


No sign of any trouble here today.

Had I But Four Square Feet…

Alice Harding, whose book “The Peony” is a classic on the subject of growing peonies once remarked, “Had I but four square feet of ground at my disposal, I would plant a peony in the centre, and proceed to worship.”  My sentiments exactly.  But there are other plants that might make muster in my four square feet.  Most certainly nicotiana would be high on my list.  My three foot square Tuscan box is full of them at this moment, and they are looking good.   Henry Mitchell describes peonies as “that rare combination of fluff and majesty”-nicotiana could not be further from that description.  

The flowers are utterly simple.  A long slender tube fans out at the end into 5 distinctly scalloped lobes.  They look back at me with that guiless and frank signature look.  The nod in the breeze.  Can you tell I really like them?  There are lots of species, hybrids and cultivars; I like them all.  Nicotiana sylvestris grows better than 6 feet tall, always needs staking, and attracts every aphid in the neighborhood-so I rarely grow that. The diminuitive nicotiana langsdorfii is a charmer.  

Perfume purple and Perfume white are lovely.  They seem to maintain that same graceful spacing along the flowering stems as the species nocotiana alata.  Shorter nicotiana, such as the Avalon series, have densely bunched flower heads that lack grace to my eye.   

By far and away, my favorites are nicotiana alata lime, and nicotiana mutabilis.  I like them even better, grown in a mix.  Nicotiana mutabilis grows tall, and also needs staking, but it is worth the trouble.  Hundred of white, pink, and rose pink flowers grow on the same plant.  It is never better for me than it is in September; it will put on incredible growth in the fall.  The tiny flowers are always fluttering over something. 

They are not fond of really hot weather, so I have no idea what will become of this planting. Those that talk weather are saying it will be really hot here for another month.  You wouldn’t think this giant pot would dry out very often, but it is a rare hot day that I do not have to soak the corners.  Do I water parts of container plantings-absolutely.  I did soak it thoroughly this morning, knowing there was a possibility our temperature would hit 100 degrees today.  So I had time to take a long look.    


What else am I growing here?  Pink mandevillea, white angelonia, Persian Queen geranium, white mini petunias, and white variegated trailing plectranthus. I have an event going on here-a nicotiana fest.

A Little Sass With All This Sizzle

Usually I am a landscape and garden designer; this week I have been a prop delivering a steady stream of water at the shop, for clients, and at home.  Proper watering in extremely high heat can be tricky.  Annabelle hydrangeas, for example, wilt down at the the slightest provocation on a hot day.  This makes sense.  Their leaves are big, and very thin.  This means water is evaporating from the leaves at a high rate-thus the wilt.  This does not necessarily mean the Annabelles need water.  Avoid hosing down plants, thinking you will cool them off.  Fungus, and mildew can run wild in hot humid conditions.  Unnecessary water can aid and abet diesease. Check the soil that your Annabelles are growing in-water if that soil is dry. Ironically, I have seen more plants suffering from too much water in this heat, than too little. The New Guinea impatiens pictured above-water like crazy.  If they lack for water when the buds are small, those buds can drop, sending an entire plant out of bloom until new ones form.  I had this happen at home-Fiona Brinks from Bordines set me straight about it.     

Many annual plants have tropical origins.  They thrive in the heat.  Annual vinca will barely perform in Michigan-it needs heat Florida style to really perform well.  Though I am dropping over from the heat, many of the annual plants are thriving, provided they are properly watered.  This pot of coleus and lime irisine benefits from some shade at the hottest part of the day, and the petunias tolerate this condition. All of these plants are shrugging off the heat. 

 These pots look pretty sassy, in spite of the 96 degree weather we have today.  The New Zealand flax is quite tolerant of heat, sun, and shade.  The dracaena Janet Craig will burn in the sun, but it is very tolerant of heat.  The Solenia begonias have no problem in sun, provided the watering is dead on.  Too much water, and those succulent stems will rot.  Too little, and they will flop over.  Siting plants in conditions they like means your heat management will go better.

Thick foliaged and waxy leaved plants transpire less than thin leaved plants.  When a farfugium wilts, no doubt it is asking for water.  A phormium never gives any visual cue about whether it likes how you are caring for it.  The tuft of leaves that comes off with a slight tug from rot at the base usually looks perfectly healthy up top. Not every sign of trouble can you spot with your eyes.  You may need your hands, or your sense of smell, or your instincts.  Great gardening demands every skill you have, and then some.  

Observe your plants-get to know them.  Weeks after the planting, I am astonished by the size of this Persian Queen geranium standard.  It must be very happy-it has quadrupled in size. I spent a lot of time looking at this plant, and assessing its location.  Plants tell a story-take time to read that story.      

These tomato pots are thriving.  I did not see a single yellow leaf or blotch.  This client has what it takes to properly look after plants.  She’s met every challenge coming from from a season of one kind of unreasonable weather followed by another.  I am quite certain she gardens by eye, and by instinct. 

Annual plants in containers set on hard surfaces in the sun-choose your plants accordingly. These plants appear to be happy.  A summer annual garden can be such a pleasure-should you choose carefully, and water accordingly. 


This scotch pine on standard has an underplanting of creeping jenny.  The creeping J is entirely tolerant of of the shade, and the water necessary to keep these New Guinea impatiens thriving in the sun.  My advice?  Observe carefully.  Plan accordingly.  Should you be gardening in a state or region experiencing this recent record breaking heat-take notes.